Maytag and Whirlpool Top-Load Washer Service Diagnostics and Fault Codes
We typed this up from the service technician booklet that came with a Maytag top-load washer, model MVWB765FW3. It's the kind of fault code (F7E3, F8E1, F5E2) people search for, so we put the codes, the service diagnostics steps and the test numbers in one place. The same booklet has instructions for Whirlpool and Kenmore models, which tells us it's shared by those brands. We've also repaired aWhirlpool WTW5057LW0 with a mode shifter problem and a Maytag MVWB765FW3 with worn suspension rods. Test numbers and codes can differ between models, so check the booklet that came with yours.
This is service technician information. Several tests run valves, pumps, the motor and the heater, and some checks are done with power on. If you're not comfortable with that, call a technician.
This page now covers two sheets. The first is the one-page quick sheet W11347436A (2019) from a Whirlpool WTW4816FW3, with the knob sequence that enters service diagnostics, the test modes, the error codes and the resistances. The second is the longer booklet from a Maytag MVWB765FW3, which has pages 4 to 19 only: it has no entry steps and no lid lock or heater element tests (Test #8 and Test #9). Start with the quick sheet if your washer has a cycle selector knob and status LEDs.
Quick sheet W11347436A: entering service diagnostics
Typed from the sheet that came with a Whirlpool WTW4816FW3 top-load washer, during acall in Palm Harbor. Status LED names can vary between makes and models.
- After power is applied, wait 10 seconds before activating service diagnostic test modes.
- Reset: rotate the cycle selector knob counterclockwise one or more clicks to clear the sequence.
- Rotate the knob clockwise one click and wait half a second.
- Rotate the knob clockwise one click and wait half a second.
- Rotate the knob clockwise one click and wait half a second.
- Rotate the knob counterclockwise one click and wait half a second.
- Rotate the knob clockwise one click.
When it works, all the status LEDs (except Lid Locked) flash on and off in half-second intervals. To pick a mode, turn the cycle selector knob until the status LEDs match the entry in the test modes table, then press START. If it doesn't enter, the sheet says to refer to the online tech sheet.
To exit, press and hold START for 3 seconds at any time. The washer also exits after 5 minutes of inactivity or if you unplug the power cord.
Diagnostic test modes
The sheet shows which status LEDs (Fill, Wash, Rinse, Spin, Done) are lit for each mode. We didn't copy that grid, so match the LEDs to the printed table. On models with a display, the number below shows on it.
| Display | Mode |
|---|---|
| 01 | Fault code display mode |
| 02 | Automatic test mode |
| 03 | Manual test mode |
| 04 | Calibration mode |
| 05 | Sales demo mode |
| 06 | UI test mode (user interface) |
| 07 | Software version display mode |
| 08 | Factory diagnostics mode |
| 09 | Tachometer verification |
| 10 | Dry factory diagnostics |
| 11 | Factory calibration test cycle |
| 14 | AATCC cycle |
| 15 | NVH cycle |
| 16 | AATCC delicate cycle |
Fault code display method
The washer shows a code in frames on the status LEDs. Frame 1 shows the F number and frame 3 shows the E number. The sheet's example is F2 then E3, which is code F2E3.
Error codes on this sheet
| Code | Description |
|---|---|
| F0E0 | No fault |
| F0E2 | Oversuds |
| F0E4 | High water temperature, rinse cycle (spin limited by water temperature) |
| F0E5 | Off balance load |
| F1E1 | Main control fault |
| F1E2 | Motor control fault |
| F2E1 | Stuck button |
| F2E3 | Switch mismatch |
| F3E1 | Pressure system fault |
| F3E2 | Inlet water temperature fault |
| F5E1 | Lid switch fault |
| F5E2 | Lid lock fault (lid won't lock, or lid lock failure) |
| F5E3 | Lid unlock fault (can't unlock the lid lock) |
| F5E4 | Lid not opened between cycles |
| F7E1 | Basket speed fault |
| F7E5 | Shifter fault |
| F7E6 | Motor fault |
| F7E7 | Motor unable to reach target RPM |
| F8E1 | Long fill / no fill |
| F8E3 | Overflow condition |
| F8E6 | Hot and cold reversed |
| F9E1 | Long drain |
Resistances and voltages on this sheet
| Component | Terminals | Voltage / resistance |
|---|---|---|
| ACU (main control) | J5, 2 and 1 | 120 VAC |
| Diagnostic LED | J12, 4 and 1 | 12 VDC |
| Hot valve | J9, 1 and 4 | 890 to 1.3K Ω |
| Cold valve | J9, 5 and 4 | 890 to 1.3K Ω |
| Shifter motor | J2, 1 and 2 | 2K to 3.5K Ω |
| Shifter motor (voltage) | J2, 2 and 1 | 120 VAC |
| Shifter switch, spin | J12, 4 and 3 | 5 VDC |
| Shifter switch, agitate | J12, 4 and 3 | 0 VDC |
| Optical sensor | J12, 4 and 1 | 12 VDC |
| Drive system, motor (voltage) | J2, 4 and 6 | 120 VAC |
| Drive system, motor (voltage) | J2, 4 and 5 | 120 VAC |
| 1/4 HP motor, each winding | J2, 4 and 6; J2, 4 and 5 | 5 to 9.5 Ω |
| 1/3 HP motor, each winding | J2, 4 and 6; J2, 4 and 5 | 3.5 to 6 Ω |
| Drain pump | J2, 2 and 3 | 14 to 25 Ω |
| Drain pump (at the pump) | 1 and 2 | 14 to 25 Ω |
| Lid lock solenoid | J6, 2 and 3 | 85 to 155 Ω |
The thermistor table on this sheet matches the temperature table further down this page (163 kΩ at 32°F down to 10 kΩ at 149°F).
Longer booklet: service diagnostics and fault codes
Reading and clearing fault codes
- Fault codes show as F and a number alternating with E and a number. The F number is the suspect system or category, and the E number is the suspect component.
- Up to four fault codes are stored.
- Enter service diagnostic mode, then press and release the 3rd button used to activate it. You hear a beep and the most recent fault code is displayed.
- Press the 3rd button again for each older code, with a beep each time. After the fourth, you hear a triple beep and it goes back to the most recent code.
- If every press gives a triple beep and the display shows 888, no fault codes are saved.
- To clear the codes, enter service diagnostic mode, then press and hold the 3rd button for 5 seconds. The display shows 888 when they're erased.
Software version display
Press and hold the 2nd button used to activate service diagnostic mode for 5 seconds. All the LEDs turn off and the display cycles through the UI, ACU, MCU and cycle design software revision codes. It times out after 5 to 10 minutes with no activity. Press POWER to exit.
Exiting service diagnostic mode
- Press and hold the 1st button used to activate it for 5 seconds, or
- Press POWER once or twice, depending on the procedure.
Service diagnostics (the automatic test cycle)
When service diagnostics starts, any loads you turned on by hand are turned off, and the step number shows on the display. The basket must be empty. The whole test takes about 3 to 4 minutes. On models without a bleach/Oxi valve, heater or recirculation pump, steps 3, 8 and 9 are skipped (marked with *).
| Step | Washer function | If it fails | Seconds |
|---|---|---|---|
| 001 | Warm water fills through the detergent valve | If there's no water, use the service test load control to turn on and test the valve. | 10 |
| 002 | Cold water fills through the fabric softener valve | If there's no water, use the service test load control to test the valve. | 10 |
| 003 | Hot water fills through the bleach/Oxi valve* | If there's no water, use the service test load control to test the valve. | 10 |
| 004 | Warm water fills through the detergent valve to minimum water level | If there's no water, use the service test load control to test the valve. | 50 to 70 |
| 005 | Validates pressure sensor | If this step fails, replace the machine control. | Up to 5 |
| 006 | Validates inlet thermistor | If this step fails, go to Test #5, Temperature Thermistor. | Up to 5 |
| 007 | Validates IPM thermistor | If this step fails, replace the machine control. | Up to 5 |
| 008 | Turns on heater* | If the heater doesn't turn on, use the service test load control to turn it on and test it. | 8 |
| 009 | Recirculates* for 10 seconds | If water isn't being recirculated, test the recirculation pump with the service test load control. | 10 |
| 010 | Skip | N/A | - |
| 011 | Lid will lock | The lid must be closed. If it doesn't lock, test the lid lock with the service test load control. | 10 |
| 012 | Skip | N/A | - |
| 013 | Drain pump on for 15 seconds | If water isn't draining, test the drain pump with the service test load control. | 20 |
| 014 | Drain pump and recirculation pump on for 25 to 30 seconds (on models without a recirculation pump, only the drain pump runs) | If water isn't being drained or recirculated, test the drain pump with the service test load control. | Under 10 |
| 015 | Pause | N/A | 5 |
| 016 | Agitate for 5 seconds | Use the service test load control to test the motor manually. | 5 |
| 017 | Low speed spin for 5 seconds | Use the service test load control to test the motor manually. | 5 |
| 018 | Spin for 20 to 30 seconds | Use the service test load control to test the motor manually. | 30 to 40 |
| 019 | Agitate for 10 seconds | Use the service test load control to test the motor manually. | 10 |
| 020 | Unlock lid | If the lid doesn't unlock, test the lid lock with the service test load control. | 5 |
Pass or fail
- After the cycle, the display flashes between the step number and PAS for pass, FAL for fail, or --- when the control can't tell if the function passed. Each shows for 1 second.
- On models without a cycle selection knob, press the soil level or temp buttons to move through the steps: soil level goes up and temp goes down.
- On models with a cycle selection knob, you can also turn the knob: clockwise goes up through the steps and counterclockwise goes down.
- Some faults stop the cycle. These are marked ‡ in the fault code table. The step where the fault was found stays on the display. If nothing is done for 5 to 10 minutes, the display clears and the washer goes into standby.
Testing loads one at a time
In service test mode, enter the load number on the display, then press START to turn that load on or off. If the number of loads allowed on at the same time, or the conditions to run the load, aren't right, the display goes off for a moment and you hear an invalid tone. Running any spin or agitate function reports functions 10 to 14 as on, because the status is based on the motor being commanded.
| Display | Function | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 000 | Lid lock | To lock or unlock the lid, all loads (pumps, motor, valves, heater) must be off and the lid closed. |
| 001 | Cold valve | |
| 002 | Hot valve | |
| 003 | Fresh fill valve | Not used (N/A). |
| 004 | Detergent valve | Not used (N/A). |
| 005 | Fabric softener valve | For water to flow, turn the cold valve on first. If the softener valve is on without the cold valve, water can overflow the front of the tray. |
| 006 | Oxi valve | For water to flow, turn the hot valve on first. If the Oxi valve is on without the hot valve, water can overflow the front of the tray. Not on all models. |
| 007 | Bleach valve | On models with a dump bleach dispenser, toggling this turns on the Oxi valve. |
| 008 | Drain pump | |
| 009 | Recirculation pump | Not on all models. |
| 010 | Low speed spin | Lid must be closed and locked. The basket must be empty. |
| 011 | Mid speed spin | Lid must be closed and locked. The basket must be empty. |
| 012 | High speed spin | Lid must be closed and locked. The basket must be empty. |
| 013 | Slow agitate | Lid must be closed and locked. The basket must be empty. |
| 014 | Fast agitate | Lid must be closed and locked. The basket must be empty. |
| 015 | Shifter | Switches in and out of spin. Shifter on is spin, shifter off is agitate. Can only be commanded while the motor is not running. The shifter is also on when spin functions 10 to 12 are active. |
| 016 | Basket light | Not used (N/A). |
| 017 | Heater | To run the heater, all loads (pumps, motor, valves) must be off and the water level must be above the impeller. |
| 050 | Run factory calibration | Factory test only. |
| 051 | Service diagnostics | Service diagnostics for repair verification and installation verification. |
| 052 | Run service calibration | Calibrates the main control to the washer for optimal load size sensing. When it finishes, the display shows 000. The Soil Level and Temp buttons review the step results as Pass/Fail. A step with no pass/fail criteria shows ---. |
| 053 | Run dry factory calibration | Factory test only. |
| 075 | Set life test mode | Factory test only. If life test mode is activated by accident, remove power from the washer and wait for the control to power down, shown by the diagnostic LED no longer flashing. |
Fault codes
This is our summary of the booklet's fault and error code chart. Codes marked ‡ stop the washer during service diagnostics. The test numbers point to the troubleshooting tests further down.
| Code | Name | What it means | What to check |
|---|---|---|---|
| F0E2 | Oversuds | Suds are keeping the basket from spinning up to speed, or the pressure sensor detects rising suds. The control flushes water to try to clear them. | If the flush can't fix it: check that HE detergent is used and not too much. Check the pressure hose from the tub to the main control for pinches, kinks, plugs or air leaks. Check for mechanical friction on the drive or the basket. |
| F0E3 | Overload | The control detects a load larger than the washer's capacity, or the basket can't be turned. | Remove excess laundry and restart the cycle. Check for mechanical friction on the drive or between the basket and tub. |
| F0E4 | Spin limited by water temperature | Water temperature is too high to spin at final speed. Speed is limited to 500 rpm. | Check water valve function. See Test #2, Valves. |
| F0E5 | Off balance load | An off balance condition is detected. | Check the suspension. The basket shouldn't bounce up and down more than once when pushed. Distribute items evenly when loading. |
| F1E1 ‡ | Main control fault | Indicates a main control fault. | See Test #1, Main Control. |
| F1E2 ‡ | Main control fault | Indicates a fault in the motor control section of the main control. | See Test #3b, Drive System, Motor. |
| F1E3 ‡ | Mismatch of ACU and UI | The user interface ID doesn't match the expected value in the main control board. Occurs during Diagnostic Test Mode if the main control and UI are mismatched. | See the Key Activation & Encoder Test. |
| F2E1 | UI stuck button | The user interface detects a button continuously activated. | See the Key Activation & Encoder Test. |
| F2E3 | UI mismatch | The machine control or user interface ID doesn't match the expected values. | Verify the ACU and UI part numbers are correct. |
| F2E4 | UI software error: incompatible parameter file | A parameter file in the UI is not correct. | Replace the user interface. |
| F2E5 | UI software error: parameter memory invalid | A parameter file in the UI is corrupt. | Replace the user interface. |
| F3E1 ‡ | Pressure system fault | The main control detects an out of range pressure signal. | Check the pressure hose from the tub to the main control for pinches, kinks, plugs or air leaks. See Test #6, Water Level. |
| F3E2 | Inlet water temperature fault | The inlet thermistor is detected as open or shorted. | See Test #5, Temperature Thermistor. |
| F4E1 | Heater stuck on | The heater is on when it should be off. | See Test #9, Heater Element. |
| F4E2 | Heater not turning on | The control turned the heater on but can't detect that it's on. | See Test #9, Heater Element. |
| F5E1 | Lid switch fault, lid is up | The lid is in a locked state but the lid switch is open, so the control doesn't sense the strike in the lid lock. The user pressed START with the lid open, or the control can't detect the lid switch opening and closing. | See Test #8, Lid Lock. |
| F5E2 | Lid lock will not lock or lid lock failure | The lid isn't closed completely because of interference. Wash media buildup is keeping the lock bolt from extending. The control detects an open lid switch when it tries to lock, or can't tell if the lid lock is in a locked state. | Check for lock interference with the lid or lock bezel. See Test #8, Lid Lock. |
| F5E3 | Lid lock will not unlock | Excessive force on the lid or wash media buildup is keeping the lock bolt from retracting, or the control can't tell if the lid lock is in an unlocked state. | See Test #8, Lid Lock. |
| F5E4 | Lid not opened between cycles | The user pressed START with the lid open, or after a set number of consecutive cycles without opening the lid. The control can't detect the lid switch opening and closing properly. | See Test #8, Lid Lock. |
| F6E2 | Communication error: UI cannot hear ACU | Communication between the UI and the ACU hasn't been detected. | Check continuity in the UI harness. Complete Test #1, Main Control, and Test #4, Keys and Encoders. |
| F6E3 | Communication error: ACU cannot hear UI | Communication between the UI and the ACU hasn't been detected. | Check continuity in the UI harness. Complete Test #1, Main Control, and Test #4, Keys and Encoders. |
| F7E0 | Loss of power | The main control detects control voltage that is too low or lost. | Check power at the outlet, circuit breakers, fuses or junction box connections. Check the AC power cord for continuity. See Test #1, Main Control. |
| F7E1 | Loss of power during spin | Power was lost during spin. The washer pauses for 5 minutes so the basket can stop before the cycle continues. | See the F7E0 recommendations. |
| F7E2 | Motor drive module failure | The main control detects a problem in the motor drive. | See Test #3b, Drive System, Motor. |
| F7E3 | Basket engaged during wash | The main control determines the shifter isn't engaging the basket for spin or disengaging it for wash. | Check the shifter connectors. Check for clothing or another item wedged between the impeller and the basket. Check that the shifter slider moves freely. See Test #3a, Drive System, Shifter. |
| F7E4 | Basket re-engagement failure | Same as F7E3: the shifter isn't engaging or disengaging the basket. | Same checks as F7E3. See Test #3a, Drive System, Shifter. |
| F7E5 | Shifter failure | Same as F7E3: the shifter isn't engaging or disengaging the basket. | Same checks as F7E3. See Test #3a, Drive System, Shifter. |
| F7E6 | Motor circuit open | The main control detects that one or more of the motor lines is open. | Check the motor circuit. See Test #3, Drive System, or Test #3b, Drive System, Motor. |
| F7E7 | Motor unable to meet target RPM | The main control is unable to get to the commanded motor speed. | Check for mechanical friction on the drive or basket (items between basket and tub). The load may be off balance. See Test #3 or #3b. |
| F7E8 | Motor over temperature | The main control determines the motor temperature is too high. | Perform service calibration to calibrate water level and load size detection. Check for mechanical friction on the drive or basket (items between basket and tub). |
| F7E9 | Locked rotor | The main control determines the motor isn't moving when it's being actively driven. | Check for mechanical friction on the drive or basket (items between basket and tub). See Test #3 or Test #3b. |
| LF or F8E1 ‡ | Long fill | The water level doesn't change for a period of time, or water is present but the control doesn't detect the level changing. | Is the water supply connected and turned on? Are the hose screens plugged? Is water siphoning out of the drain hose? Check the drain hose installation. Low water pressure with fill times over 10 minutes. Is the pressure hose from the tub to the main control pinched, kinked, plugged or leaking air? See Test #2, Valves. |
| F8E3 | Overflow or flood condition | The main control senses a water level that exceeds the washer's capacity. | Check the pressure hose connection from the tub to the main control. Check the drain hose: it must not be more than 4.5 inches into the drain pipe, must not be sealed in, and needs an air gap. Drain height must be between 39 inches and 8 feet above the floor. May mean a problem with the water inlet valves or a pressure transducer fault on the main control. See Test #2 and Test #6. |
| F8E6 | Water hazard | The main control senses water in the tub and the lid has been left open for more than 10 minutes. | Same checks as F8E3. May also point to a problem with the lid lock. See Test #2, Test #6 and Test #8. |
| drn or dr, F9E1 ‡ or F9E2 | Drain pump system problem, long drain | The water level doesn't change after the drain pump is on. | Is the drain hose or the drain pump clogged? Is the drain hose height greater than 8 feet? Is the pressure hose pinched, kinked, plugged or leaking air? Too much detergent. Is the pump running? If not, see Test #7, Drain Pump. |
Troubleshooting guide by symptom
The booklet says to check for error codes first. This is our summary of its symptom chart.
| Problem | Possible cause | Checks and tests |
|---|---|---|
| Won't power up (no operation, no keypad response, no LEDs or display) | No power; AC plug to main control connection; connections between main control and UI; UI problem; main control problem | Check power at the outlet, breakers and fuses. Check the AC cord for continuity. Check connections and continuity between main control and UI. Test #4, Keys and Encoders. Test #1, Main Control. |
| Won't start cycle (no response when START is pressed) | Lid lock mechanism not functioning; connections between main control and UI; UI problem; main control problem | Lid or lock not closed due to interference. Test #8, Lid Lock. Check connections and continuity between main control and UI. Test #4. Test #1. |
| UI won't accept selections | Connections between main control and UI; UI problem; main control problem | Check connections and continuity between main control and UI. Test #4. Test #1. |
| Won't fill | No water supplied; plugged filter or screen; drain hose installation; valve problem; main control problem | Check water connections and verify hot and cold supply is on. Check for a plugged filter or screen in the water valve or hoses. Check drain hose installation. Test #2, Valves. Test #1. |
| Overfills | Pressure hose; valve problem; washer requires calibration; pressure transducer on main control | Test #6, Water Level. Test #2, Valves. Perform service calibration. Test #1. |
| Won't dispense fabric softener or Oxi (Oxi is not on all models) | No water supplied; obstruction in dispenser; valve problem; main control problem | Check water connections and supply. Clean the obstruction from the dispenser. Test #2. Test #1. |
| Incorrect water temperature | Water hose installation; temperature thermistor; valve problem; main control problem | Make sure inlet hoses are connected properly. Test #5, Temperature Thermistor. Test #2. Test #1. |
| Won't agitate | Water covering the impeller; lid lock showing open during the cycle; harness connections; shifter problem; motor problem; main control problem | Test #6, Water Level. Test #8, Lid Lock. Check harness connections between main control and drive system. Test #3a, Shifter. Test #3b, Motor. Test #1. |
| Won't spin | Lid lock showing open during the cycle; harness connections; shifter problem; motor problem; main control problem | Test #8, Lid Lock. Check harness connections between main control and drive system. Test #3a. Test #3b. Test #1. |
| Won't drain | Drain hose installation; standpipe position; plugged drain hose; obstructions to the drain pump; harness connections; drain pump; main control problem | Drain hose must not be inserted more than 4.5 inches, must not be sealed into the drain pipe, and needs an air gap. Standpipe height between 39 inches and 8 feet above the floor. Check the drain hose for obstructions. Check the tub sump under the impeller plate and basket. Check harness connections between main control and drain pump. Test #7, Drain Pump. Test #1. |
| Cycle time longer than expected | Oversuds; off balance; drain hose installation; standpipe position; draining slowly; water pressure drop; friction or drag on drive; weak suspension | Verify HE detergent and normal detergent amounts. Load off balance or balance ring water leak. Check the drain hose installation and standpipe height. Check the pump and drain hose for obstructions. A water pressure drop means a longer fill time. Check the motor and bearings, and check for items between tub and basket. The basket shouldn't bounce up and down more than once when pushed. |
| Poor wash performance, incorrect water level | Oversuds; tangling load; incorrect water level; clothes wet after cycle; load not rinsed; not cleaning clothes | Verify HE detergent. Load the washer properly. Perform service calibration. Test #2, Valves. Test #6, Water Level. For clothes wet after the cycle: overloaded washer, oversuds, items caught in the tub sump, weak suspension, shifter not moving into position, cold or rinse water over 105°F, Test #7 (drain pump) and Test #3b (motor). |
Troubleshooting tests
Test #1: Main control
- Unplug the washer, remove the console to reach the main control, and check that all connectors are fully inserted. Plug the washer back in.
- With a voltmeter on AC, put the black probe on J12-3 (neutral) and the red probe on J12-1 (L1). You should read 120 VAC. If not, check the AC power cord for continuity.
- Look at the diagnostic LED on the main control. Flashing means +5 VDC is present and the microcontroller is operating, so go to the Key Activation and Encoder test. On steady means +5 VDC is present but the microcontroller has failed. Off means +5 VDC is missing or the microcontroller has failed.
- If the LED is off, unplug the washer, remove connector J18, plug in and recheck the LED. If it's now flashing, the UI is affecting the control, so go to Test #4. If not, check DC voltage at J18-3 (circuit ground) and J18-1 (+5 VDC). If there's no DC voltage, or there's voltage but the LED isn't flashing, the main control has malfunctioned and needs replacing.
Do not short pins together when checking voltages at header J18.
Main control connectors
| Connector | Pins |
|---|---|
| J1 Motor | J1-6 HF return; J1-5 open; J1-4 blue VS3; J1-3 yellow VS1; J1-2 open; J1-1 red VS2 |
| J2 Valves and thermistor | J2-12 open; J2-11 open; J2-10 blue cold valve; J2-9 red hot valve; J2-8 violet Oxi valve (not on all models); J2-7 gray softener valve; J2-6 open; J2-5 open; J2-4 white neutral; J2-3 open; J2-2 black valve thermistor; J2-1 return (VSS) |
| J4 Pumps and shifter | J4-7 orange shifter; J4-5 light blue recirculation pump (not on all models); J4-3 blue drain pump; J4-1 white neutral |
| J5 Heater element | J5-2 gray neutral; J5-1 black L1 |
| J6 Lid lock | J6-7 red lock switch; J6-6 open; J6-5 green lid switch; J6-4 blue home switch; J6-3 black lock motor; J6-2 brown lock motor; J6-1 white switch out |
| J12 Power cord | J12-3 white neutral; J12-2 green ground; J12-1 black L1 |
| J18 User interface | J18-3 black return (VSS); J18-2 blue wide; J18-1 yellow +5 VDC |
Test #2: Valves
Run the cold, hot, Oxi and fabric softener valves from the load test list. If a valve doesn't turn on, unplug the washer, remove the console, remove connector J2 from the main control, check the harness connection to the valves, and check coil resistance across these J2 pins. Resistance should be 790 to 840 ohms.
| Valve | Pins |
|---|---|
| Fabric softener | J2, pins 4 and 7 |
| Oxi (not on all models) | J2, pins 4 and 8 |
| Hot | J2, pins 4 and 9 |
| Cold | J2, pins 4 and 10 |
If readings are tens of ohms outside the range, replace the valve assembly. If they're within range, replace the main control and run service diagnostics.
Test #3: Drive system
Enter service diagnostic test mode, get any fault codes and clear them. If the codes are F7E3, F7E4, F7E5, F7E6 or F7E7, it's likely a motor or shifter problem. After clearing the codes, run the heavy agitation test in service load control mode. If the motor runs after 15 to 20 seconds, the motor and motor wiring harness are fine. If the motor hums briefly and then shuts down, check the fault codes.
Test #3a: Shifter
- The lid must be closed and locked for the motor to agitate or spin. Drain the tub before working on the bottom of the washer.
- Check the shifter and its electrical connections by running the spin and agitate tests in service load control mode.
- The motor and shifter should turn independently of each other. If they're locked together, there's a shifter slider issue.
- Check that the J4 connector is fully inserted in the main control. With a voltmeter on AC, put the black probe on J4-1 (neutral) and the red probe on J4-7 (L1), then turn the shifter output on and off. The motor must be stopped to toggle the shifter, or you can command spin and agitate.
- If 120 VAC is present, tilt the washer back, remove the sound pad if there is one, and visually check the electrical connections to the shifter.
- Check harness continuity between the shifter and main control: J4-1 (white) to shifter connector pin 3 (white), and J4-7 (orange) to shifter connector pin 1 (orange). If there's no continuity, replace the lower washer harness.
- Remove the motor bolt and the motor cover, then remove the motor stator and the shifter coil. Confirm the slider on the motor shaft moves freely. If it binds or shows rubbing between the shifter coil and the slider, replace the drive. If it moves freely, go to the main control step: replace the main control and run service diagnostics.
Test #3b: Motor
- Drain the tub and remove any wash load from the basket.
- Run the low, mid and high speed spin tests in service load control mode. Unplug the washer and check that the impeller turns freely and isn't connected to the basket. If it doesn't turn, find the mechanical friction or lockup.
- Check that the J1 connector is fully inserted in the main control. Resistance across J1 pins 1 to 3 and 3 to 4 should be 8 to 10 ohms each. Much higher than 10 ohms means the harness or motor connection should be checked. Much lower than 8 ohms or all correct means go on to the motor itself.
- Tilt the washer back and check that the motor connection on the drive is fully inserted. Check the harness for continuity between all J1 pins and the drive motor connector. No continuity means replace the lower washer harness.
- At the drive motor connector, resistance across pins 2 to 3 (red to yellow) and 3 to 4 (yellow to blue) should be 8 to 10 ohms each. Much higher than 10 ohms means remove the motor bolt, the motor cover, the shifter coil and the stator, and check that the motor electrical connection cover is fully seated. Much lower than 8 ohms means replace the drive. If all readings are correct and the motor still fails, replace the main control.
Test #4: Keys and encoders
This test is for when none of the indicators light up, some buttons don't light indicators, or no audio feedback is heard.
- None of the indicators light up: unplug the washer, check that the J18 connector is fully inserted in the main control and the UI harness connector is fully seated on the UI, and the speaker connector too. If both visual checks pass, do Test #1 to verify supply voltages, then verify continuity in the UI harness. ACU J18 pin 1 (black) goes to UI J6 pin 3, J18 pin 2 (blue) to UI J6 pin 2, and J18 pin 3 (yellow) to UI J6 pin 1. If continuity fails, replace the UI harness. If it passes, replace the user interface.
- Some buttons don't light indicators: unplug the washer, replace the UI assembly, reassemble, plug in, and verify the repair.
- No audio feedback: exit the key activation and encoder test by pressing POWER, then turn the washer on and enable audio feedback in normal mode. On Whirlpool models, press and hold End Beep for 3 seconds to change the button sound level (off, low, medium, high). On Maytag models, press Audio Level to change it (off, low, high). On Kenmore models, press and hold Cycle Signal for 3 seconds. If there's still no sound, unplug the washer, check that the speaker connector on the UI is fully seated, and if so replace the user interface assembly.
Test #5: Temperature thermistor
This checks the valves, main control, temperature thermistor and wiring. Run the cold valve and hot valve tests first. If cold water comes out on the hot test, check the hose connections. If hot comes out on the cold test, check the household hot water. Then unplug the washer, remove the console, remove connector J2 from the main control, and measure the thermistor across J2-1 and J2-2 with an ohmmeter. Compare with the table, using the ambient temperature. If the resistance is infinite or close to zero, replace the valve assembly. If the thermistor is good, replace the main control. Most thermistor errors are caused by out of range resistance, and when the thermistor malfunctions the washer defaults to pre-programmed wash settings.
| Temperature (°F) | Temperature (°C) | Resistance (kΩ) |
|---|---|---|
| 32 | 0 | 163 |
| 41 | 5 | 127 |
| 50 | 10 | 100 |
| 59 | 15 | 79 |
| 68 | 20 | 62 |
| 77 | 25 | 50 |
| 86 | 30 | 40 |
| 95 | 35 | 33 |
| 104 | 40 | 27 |
| 113 | 45 | 22 |
| 122 | 50 | 18 |
| 131 | 55 | 15 |
| 140 | 60 | 12 |
| 149 | 65 | 10 |
Test #6: Water level
This checks the water level sensing parts. Usually, if the pressure transducer malfunctions, the washer generates a long fill or long drain error.
- Check the pressure transducer by running a small load cycle. The valves should shut off automatically after the washer senses the correct water level.
- Drain the tub, unplug the washer, remove the console and check the hose connection between the pressure transducer on the main control and the pressure dome on the tub.
- Check that the hose is routed correctly in the lower cabinet and isn't pinched or crimped inside the console or by the back panel.
- Check that there's no water, suds or debris in the hose or dome. Disconnect the hose from the main control and blow into it to clear water, suds or debris. Check the hose for leaks and replace it if needed.
- If none of that fixes it, replace the main control, run service diagnostics, and run a fill cycle to verify.
Test #7: Drain pump and recirculation pump
Do this if the washer doesn't drain. Drain the water from the tub before accessing the bottom of the washer.
- Check for obstructions in the usual areas and clean them.
- Turn on the drain pump (and recirculation pump, on some models) in service load control mode.
- If it still doesn't work: unplug the washer, remove the console, and check that the J4 connector is fully inserted in the main control. With J4 removed, check resistance with an ohmmeter.
| Component | J4 pins | Correct resistance |
|---|---|---|
| Drain pump | J4, 1 and 3 | 12 to 15 Ω |
| Recirculation pump | J4, 1 and 5 | 26 to 32 Ω |
- If the values are open or out of range, tilt the washer back and check that the pump is free from obstructions, and check the electrical connections at the pump.
- Check the harness for continuity between the pump and main control: drain pump pin 1 to J4-1 (white wire) and pin 2 to J4-3 (blue wire). Recirculation pump pin 1 to J4-1 (white wire) and pin 2 to J4-5 (light blue wire). No continuity means replace the lower washer harness.
- With an ohmmeter across the two pump terminals, if the values are open or out of range, replace the pump motor. If the resistance is correct, replace the main control.
Rather have someone else run the tests? We repair Maytag, Whirlpool and other washers around Palm Harbor, Safety Harbor, Oldsmar and nearby. See our washer repair page or call(727) 599-9631.